(June 17)
I know I’ve been jumping around a little in these emails, but hey, I never promised they would unfold in chronological order! Today let me say more about our field trip to Cape Town that took place over the weekend. It was a fantastic time, so this might be a long one.
Friday morning came early as 50 or 60 of us boarded a bus and headed for the Johannesburg airport. For most of our African friends the conference was coming to an end, and many of them were scattering to different parts of the continent and heading home. However, twelve of us flew to Cape Town for our field trip. (Other options were to visit an urban ministry in Johannesburg, or World Vision in Swaziland.)
Once we landed in CT we headed directly to The Warehouse.
“The Warehouse was established in 2003 by the Anglican Parish of St. John’s in Wynberg and exists to serve and help the South African church network, primarily in the Cape Town metropolitan area, in addressing poverty and injustice effectively. We work with local churches in rich and poor communities by helping them implement sound, effective and practical acts and renewed attitudes that change the lives of the poor, restore dignity and build meaningful relationships.
This is explored through five strategic pillars, namely prayer, mobilisation, equipping, innovation and advocacy. The projects that come out of these pillars tackle the most painful wounds on the body of our nation - orphan care, high-risk youth and gangsterism, unemployment, redistribution of resources, as well as training and development in community work and social transformation. This is all done with a deliberate and intentional focus on prayer.”
Needless to say that visit had my mind racing with the possibilities, both for Linwood House Ministries, and other groups that I am familiar with who are involved in the downtown eastside, such as Streams of Justice.
From there we traveled to Cape Town’s most famous landmark, Table Mountain, to ride the cableway up and catch the sunset. The view was stunning and the sunset was beautiful. After we drove through one of Cape Town’s wealthiest suburbs located at the base of Table Mountain, on a beautiful beach. Just as was the case last weekend in the mall cafe in Johannesburg, I was reminded yet again of the incredible disparity between poor and rich that exists in this country. You simply can’t escape it, although my Afrikaans friends tell me many of their peers have structured their lives in a way that insulates them from this reality. Given careful attention to where you live, who you associate with, the routes you drive, etc., it is almost possible to delude yourself into thinking you live in Europe. And yet this Africa.
From that wealthy neighbourhood we travelled to the black township of Guguletu, to the JL Zwane Church and Center, where we were to meet our host families. JL Zwane is a beautiful facility located in the heart of the township, and is pastored by Spiwo Xapile, of whom I will have more to say in a moment. There my friend Bill and I met Liziwe Mahlatshana, who would be hosting us for two nights. Liziwe is a single 37 year old women who lives with her 14 year old niece, called ZuZu because her real name “is too complicated” in a small house in the township. (The weekend prior Liziwe had hosted two other American men who were part of a larger group visiting the church. We had a lot of laughs over what the neighbours must be thinking with all these white men frequenting her place!)
It was late, and everyone was tired, but we had a wonderful meal together at Liziwe’s place, along with Jeff and Caroline Gill and their host, whose name I couldn’t possibly spell.
Saturday morning we met again at the church and travelled to the coloured township of Mannenberg. (The racial distinctions in South Africa are Black, White, and Coloured. The details are too complicated to get into here, but although there is freedom of movement now, economic and other pressures still assure that townships remain relatively racially segregated.) Here we had a quick drive around and were given a look into life there, particularly the over-arching control of the township by gangs. This added yet another layer of complexity to our understanding of South Africa.
To mark the contrast again, we drove from Mannenberg out along the coast, heading for Cape Point. We passed through several beautiful coastal towns, where the faces were mostly white, and where it would not be difficult to convince yourself that you were actually in New Zealand or a similar locale. But no, we were still Africa, as I kept reminding myself. Places like Kalk Bay, where we stopped for fish & chips on the wharf and watched seals battle for guts thrown over the side of the fishing boats tied up there. Places like Boulders, where we watched endangered African penguins building their nests on the beach. Incredible.
The rain came and went all day, and as we approached the park entrance to Cape Point we debated going in (there was an entry fee and the weather was questionable) but in the end we decided to go for it. On the road in we saw an ostrich, an animal that simply proves the point that God has a sense of humour. When we parked the bus the clouds dried up, and we ended up having a fantastic time there. We climbed to the top, opting to walk rather than take the funicular that would have taken us up with no effort. It was stunning. A common misconception is that this is the place where the Atlantic and Indian oceans meet, but in reality that spot is about 350 kms to the east. Close enough though. It was breath taking. My friend Andrew Perriman and I also climbed down to a pristine beach where the sand whipped you in the face with the same wind that had shipwrecked countless vessels as they rounded the Cape over the centuries. The hike was a workout, but well worth it.
It was a stunning outing, only surpassed by watching a baboon give birth on the road out, right beside our bus! You read that right. Bill managed to capture most of the big event on video, so it will be on YouTube at some point to prove that I’m not making this up. Of course this then became the barometer for the rest of the weekend--everything else we saw was “nice, but it’s no baboon-birth”!
We continued around the Cape on our way back to town, passing through tiny English village-looking places like Misty Cliffs Conservation Village. The illusion didn’t last though, as the road took us through yet another township on our way back to Cape Town. We capped of the evening in a beautiful restaurant located in a mall that reminded me of the Eaton Centre in Toronto. Of course I had the ostrich in honour of our earlier sighting. The bird I mean, not the birth.
Sunday morning for me was the highlight of the weekend.
We were to meet up at JL Zwane at 9:15 as our group was scattering to three or four churches that morning, but Bill and I needed to be there at 8 am as our host was involved in their weekly Leadership Development meeting. Jeff and Caroline were there too, along with Tracy and Seth.
I mentioned Spiwo Xapile earlier. He had spoken at the Amahoro Gathering on the Reformation of Children and blew me away. This guy is brilliant. Before the meeting he briefly told us that the purpose was to really engage the laity, to develop leadership in order to make the work of the church sustainable beyond the pastor. Many African churches are dominated by the personalities running them, and Spiwo wanted to break that mold. He explained to us that a post-apartheid mindset was still alive and well in his black congregation that resulted in the people waiting. Waiting to be told what to do. Waiting to be led, as opposed to desiring to lead themselves. Spiwo’s thinking is way outside the box and impressed me beyond words. He is kind but intense, and when he looks you in the eye you know that there will be no wasted words coming out of his mouth.
Switching easily between Xhosa and English, Spiwo started off the meeting by explaining why we were there, and then asked us to briefly say who we were, where we were from, and what we did. I was second to last. I said I was involved with a ministry that worked with women trying to break the bonds of prostitution and drug addiction, which I’ve found is the best way to describe to people here what Linwood House is all about. As the last person introduced themselves, I noticed with just a little concern that Spiwo was staring at me pretty intensely, which I’ve already implied is not a look to be taken lightly. I was a little worried that I had offended him somehow, perhaps with the reference to prostitution. I couldn’t have been more wrong.
Spiwo then shared that the agenda for that morning’s meeting had originally been to discuss the recent World Economic Forum which had been held in Cape Town, and also a government corruption scandal that was currently headline news. Did you catch that? These were the topics to be discussed. In church. The World Economic Forum and government corruption. The kinds of subjects that actually intersect with people’s lives in a very real way. Outstanding. However, he had something else in mind for the morning conversation.
He started off by asking for a show of hands from those who would leave the church if they started a ministry to prostitutes. No hands went up. “Well, then,” Spiwo said, “Maybe we can learn something from our Canadian brother.” And he called me up and we interacted on a very broad range of subjects for about 30 minutes.
Spiwo asked about what Linwood House does, and I was able to describe the relational ethos of LHM. Being incredibly insightful, he asked how other, perhaps more traditional churches related to what we did. I had a chance to talk about the privilege and responsibility of walking with friends in the DTES, and not seeing them simply as “projects”. He asked if this was a lonely place to be and I laughed out loud. He talked of his own struggles, of losing friends and colleagues because of his fringe views, and his belief that we are to be Jesus in the world. He asked how I came to think this way, and I was able to share some of our personal story and our spiritual journey. It was incredible.
Between Spiwo’s questions and a few from those in attendance, we went way over time and had to draw things to a close. As I sat down he continued to talk to me about how the world was getting smaller, and how we needed to learn from each other. For example, he said, “What if a few of our people came to Canada to learn from your ministry for a couple of weeks?” I laughed again, because in my head I was already planning the LHM trip to Cape Town. Needless to say there is a lot to talk about here, but maybe, just maybe, it’s getting close to the time for that elusive first Linwood House trip to Africa. Africa has so much to teach us, and the mind boggles at what we could share with them, what in turn they would do with that shared knowledge, how they would make it uniquely African, and what we could in turn learn from them!
We formed a circle, about 50 or 60 of us, and our new friends prayed for us, and sang too. It was a beautiful moment. After, Liziwe told me that she was sorry we didn’t have more time to talk because she had a similar story. We’re going to explore that a little through the wonders of the internet, and I look forward to furthering these relationships as we can.
From there I suppose it was appropriate that I experienced the contrast yet again, as seven of us headed to downtown Cape Town to take in the morning service at the beautiful and historic Cathedral Church of St. George, where Desmond Tutu once presided. It was wonderful to share in the liturgy and the Eucharist as English, Afrikaans and Xhosa were all used in the service. From there it was lunch at Rene’s house, who was one of the organizer’s of this year’s Amahoro Gathering, then off to the airport for the flight back to Joburg.
Let me end this note by saying that just like last year’s conference, the field trip was all the more meaningful coming on the heels of so many powerful conversations at the Gathering itself. It’s one thing to listen, and to share together, but that when that knowledge is matched up with experience, it becomes very real, and it moves even further from your head to your heart.
OK, that was a long one! I’ll leave it there for now. I’ll just say again that South Africa is different than any other African country I’ve been to, but I think it will take as much, if not more, processing to sort through this experience. I’m amazed and grateful to God for this strange, wonderful life that I get to lead.
More later.
PS. Here’s the Collect from Sunday morning’s liturgy for you. It says it all:
Father of justice and love
You call your Church to witness
That you are reconciling the world to yourself:
Help us to proclaim boldly the good news of your love
That all who hear it may be reconciled to you
And work together for peace and justice;
Through Jesus Christ our Lord.
Who lives and reigns with you and the Holy Spirit,
One God, now and for ever, Amen.
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